Kapunata

• By Matty Cremona

Kapunata, from the Sicilian capunata, is a stew of aubergines, bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic and olive oil, braised until soft, then flavoured with herbs, olives and capers. In summer, it is the perfect accompaniment to grills and grains, adds substance to a table of antipasti, and is very good served cold at picnics and barbecues.

Though we think of kapunata as a typically Maltese dish, it’s not. There are similar dishes all around the Mediterranean littoral, and as the name suggests, our own version came via the Sicilian connection. Years ago, when vegetable supplies in Malta were less varied than they are today, kapunata was not as colourful as it should be to make it truly appetising. The only bell peppers on the market were green, but the orange, red and yellow peppers, which are just the ripe versions of the green variety, add colour and a sweeter taste.

The Catalonian version is called escalivada, and the tomatoes and vegetables are grilled, peeled where necessary, and mixed together, then dressed with a mixture of olive oil, garlic and parsley. There is the smallest difference between this Catalonian grilled version of kapunata and the Tunisian salata mishwiyya (grilled salad). In the Tunisian version, the vegetables are chopped, and crushed caraway seeds, lemon juice, black olives and canned tuna are stirred in.