Cuttings from August 2004

A pennyworth of kunserva
Maltese kunserva has scored special status with the European Commission, which has declared it to be a traditional and well-defined Maltese food product.
Ancient wine
Patrick McGovern, in his Ancient Wine: the Search for the Origins of Viniculture (Princeton University Press) suggests that the Eurasian
Avocados
You may think of avocados as synonymous with 1970s dinner party menus, along with prawn cocktail and stuffed mushrooms. Yet
Birdseye frozen foods
How did Birdseye frozen foods get the name? While working as a fur-trader in Labrador during the 1910s, Clarence Birdseye
Black velvet
Black Velvet, the mixture of champagne and Guinness, was invented in 1861 at the London gentlemen’s club, Brooke’s. Legend has
Blood food
Russian scientists have found a way of turning waste blood from meat processing plants into biscuits, yoghurts and drinks.
Butter
“Nobody, my darling, could call me a fussy man, but I do like a bit of butter on my bread!”
Chillies
There are hundreds of chilli varieties, varying in length, size and colour from yellow through to green and bright red.
Cordon bleu
Un cordon bleu was a knight of the ancient French order of Saint-Esprit. The nickname was derived from the blue
Eating horses
Eating horses is called hippophagy. The Romans, who ate almost every sort of living thing, had a deep-rooted distaste for
Fish from farms
With farmed fish at least you know what you're eating, writes Corinne Vella.
Flaunting food in art
Madeleine Gera describes a particular 17th-century means of showing off: commissioning artists to paint elaborate displays of the household food.
How to use pomegranates
You may wonder how to use the current crop of pomegranates. Here are two suggestions. Split the fruit in half
Mediterranean food festival
We think that the Malta Tourism Authority’s annual Mediterranean Food Festival should be turned into a festival of Maltese food
Ortolans
The ortolan or bunting is a tiny bird described by the 19th century chef Alexis Soyer as “an epicurean ecstasy…the
Possible benefits of alcohol
It’s no excuse to get drunk and disorderly, but research published by academics at University College London has found
Rules for waiters
The English bon viveur Sir Wilfred Gowers-Round (1855-1945) became so infuriated by the poor quality and general insolence of waiters
Sake
Sake, as well as being a generic Japanese term for alcoholic drink, is wine made from fermented rice, known commonly
Spices
Columbus’ discovery of the Americas, Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India via the Cape of Good Hope, and Magellan’s circumnavigation
The locust tree
The carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua), once known too as the locust tree, is a fast-disappearing feature of the Maltese landscape.
The Macaroni Club
In 1770, the Oxford Magazine described the members of the Macaroni Club, English dandies who slavishly aped continental style and
The olive oil paladin
Gino Celletti is one of Italy’s leading olive oil judges. He is ranked as a paladin (paladino) of the olive-oil-tasting
The thriving industry that died out
Two thousand years ago, Malta had a thriving olive oil industry. The remains of country villas and farms where olives
More cuttings

Grains

By Liz Pace

Liz Pace points the way to greater health, strength and energy with organic grains.

Twenty-five years ago, few gave a thought to the source of the things they ate. Now, almost everybody wants to know and assiduously checks the contents listed on packaging. There is a growing and marked preference for natural foods, and in particular, those that are grown organically using no chemical pesticides or artificial fertilizers, and that are not processed using synthetic dyes, artificial flavouring, genetic modification or irradiation. Organic food is defined by EU law and is strictly controlled, which means that all food sold as organic must come from registered growers, importers and processors who are subject to regular inspection.

A diet based on fresh or minimally-processed food, above all whole grains combined with pulses and a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, is rich in vitamins, minerals, phyto-chemicals, essential fats and fibre. It maintains our health and keeps much illness and dysfunction in check.

Organic brown rice is one of my favourite grains, and I use it to add delicacy and fragrance to many dishes: baked, steamed, fried or simply boiled. It is invariably greeted with pleasure, and makes a welcome change from the usual white rice. It also plays an integral role in low-fat and gluten-free diets, and has been welcomed by the increasing numbers of those who are on low-cholesterol diets and always in search of something new to enliven the day’s menu. All rice is free of cholesterol.

We digest rice at a much faster rate than any other food we consume. It is high in essential minerals - potassium, iron and calcium - and vitamins B, K and E. Brown rice, unlike its polished counterpart, is rich in bran and dietary fibre, because the husks are retained, giving it a subtle golden hue. It has a nutty flavour and is a little chewy, with a definite firm bite.

Although classed as a lesser grain, organic pot barley is heart-warming, particularly as the weather begins to cool. It’s so modest and unassuming that once tasted, you instantly love it, and you’re hooked for life. Chewier in texture than its white counterpart, pearl barley, it is far superior in taste and texture. Its nutritious content is so elevated that in former times it was infused in boiling-water, flavoured with lemon, and served as a refreshing and nourishing drink to children and convalescents. The best way to use pot barley is by soaking it overnight and then cooking it in plenty of water for about 60 to 120 minutes until tender. It is added to soups and stews or used as the main ingredient in salads. It is particularly good when mixed with beans and nuts.

Whole organic buckwheat is another underestimated grain. Its heady richness makes it a convenient and versatile ingredient in the kitchen. It is generally associated with Russian cuisine in the preparation of kasha, and with Japanese soba noodles, but it is both hearty and a splendid comfort food for those times when edible consolation is needed. It is easy to prepare and takes just 10 to 20 minutes. It is a good source of protein and is gluten-free, making it an excellent choice for those with wheat allergies.

Organic quinoa is a tiny, beady seed with a delicate flavour, and was a dietary staple of the Incas of South America. Seen as the caviar of grains, quinoa is rich in protein and minerals and is gluten-free. It is quick and easy to prepare, with an end result that is light and tasty. Its high-fibre content makes it easily digestible. Cook quinoa in slightly salted water or vegetable stock for 10 to 15 minutes, drain and serve it warm as a side dish with casseroles or curry, or cold as a salad or with other vegetables. Quinoa’s charm is that because of its neutrality, it takes on the flavours of the ingredients it is cooked with.

Organic millet is a small pale-yellow grain with a bland but delicate flavour. It is much eaten in Africa and Asia, and is rich in iron and Vitamin B while being gluten-free. Millet can be mixed with rice or completely replace rice in a meal, and it combines well with most other ingredients. It may be served warm or cold as a salad. Its flavour is enhanced by light toasting before boiling, which gives it a golden and delicately nutty flavour.

Organic whole grains make the basis of quick and tasty dishes. Add the ingredients you find in your refrigerator, and you will have a good, nourishing meal in under 45 minutes, with not much money spent.

The thriving industry that died out